Cycling Tour of Epirus & Zagori

Welcome to Samarina, one of the highest villages in Greece, perched at 1,400 meters on the verdant slopes of Mount Smolikas, the towering crown of the Pindos range. This remote mountain settlement is unlike any other—home to Vlach shepherds who return here each summer, continuing a centuries-old tradition of transhumance. Their unique culture, language, and rhythms of life infuse the village with authenticity and character.

Stroll through its narrow stone alleys, shaded by towering fir trees and dotted with wood-and-stone houses, until you reach the heart of the village: a lively square buzzing with the energy of summer returnees. Locals gather under the age-old plane trees for long, laughter-filled evenings, sharing stories and clinking glasses of tsipouro, the local spirit. As the sun sets behind Smolikas’ rugged silhouette, we enjoy a welcoming dinner in one of the tavernas, feasting on locally sourced mountain dishes—slow-roasted lamb, handmade pies, fresh greens, and tangy cheeses. It’s the perfect beginning to our journey into the wild and authentic beauty of Epirus.

Overnight in Samarina

Cycling Details:
Optional ride distance: 5–15 km (warm-up loop or local ride)
Elevation gain: 200–400 m
Surface: Primarily paved, light gravel options available
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate – Ride style: Acclimatization / scenic exploration

We begin our ride from the heart of Samarina’s lively square, where early-morning life buzzes quietly under the shade of ancient plane trees. Our wheels trace a path through the village and past a rustic water-powered sawmill, a nod to the traditional mountain life that still thrives here. Soon, we arrive at the Monastery of Agia Paraskevi, nestled in solitude just outside the village. Revered as the protector of the blind, this sacred site invites a moment of reflection before we head deeper into the wild.

The route transitions to a forest road, winding into the mystical landscape of Valia Kirna—known among the Vlachs as the Devil’s Valley. Don’t let the name mislead you: this stretch is a breathtakingly peaceful ride, lined with towering conifers and echoing with the sounds of hidden mountain springs. For about 10 km, we ride in the shadow of Mt. Smolikas, whose jagged peaks rise dramatically above us. A short 3 km detour brings us to one of the hidden jewels of the region: crystal-clear waterfalls, cascading down rock walls and inviting a brief pause—or even a splash.

Returning to the main trail, we continue toward Distrato on a spectacular highland path that rolls gently through flower-strewn meadows, with sweeping views of the Epirus mountains unfolding around every bend. A final descent brings us onto smooth asphalt, and just ahead, Distrato village appears like a postcard scene nestled in the valley below.

Before reaching the village, there’s an optional stop for a refreshing swim in the river—a perfect way to cool down after the ride. Just one final kilometer through peaceful countryside brings us to our traditional guesthouse, where a warm welcome and well-earned rest await.

Overnight in Distrato

Cycling Details:
Distance: ~32–35 km (including waterfall detour)
Elevation gain: ~600 m
Surface: Mixed – forest road, gravel, asphalt (hybrid or gravel bikes ideal)
Difficulty: Moderate

Today’s ride takes us deeper into the highlands of Epirus, tracing a path along the lower slopes of Mt. Vasilitsa—a mountain that holds more than just natural beauty. These quiet forests once echoed with the sounds of war: during World War II, this rugged terrain was a key battleground where Greek partisans, alpine brigades, and resistance fighters clashed with occupying forces. Some say parts of downed aircraft still lie hidden among the trees.

We begin with a steady climb, surrounded by dense conifers and fresh mountain air. The uphill effort is quickly rewarded with a glorious descent: a long, flowing ride on a well-maintained forest road, cutting through some of the most untouched landscapes of the Aoos Valley. Every turn opens up to vistas of wild ridgelines, whispering pines, and a silence broken only by birdsong and the distant rush of streams.

As we ride deeper, the forest grows thicker and the road leads us down to the banks of the Aoos River, where the pristine village of Vovousa emerges like a hidden treasure. Tucked away in a remote corner of East Zagori, Vovousa is one of the most isolated and charming villages in the region—a living gateway to the Valia Calda National Park, one of Greece’s wildest protected areas. A single stone-arched bridge spans the river, and a few cozy guesthouses and tavernas offer warm hospitality amidst ancient wilderness.

This is Zagori at its most authentic, and a true reward for every pedal stroke.

Overnight in Vovousa

Cycling Details:
Distance: ~35 km
Elevation gain: ~500–600 m
Surface: Mostly forest roads, well-paved and rideable gravel
Difficulty: Moderate

We leave behind the serene rhythms of Vovousa and begin one of the most awe-inspiring rides of the tour, tackling the legendary Morfa Pass—a remote and dramatic crossing that connects deep forest valleys to the high ridges of East Zagori. The ride begins right from our guesthouse, and the terrain quickly draws us upward, climbing almost 600 meters through thick pine woods and alpine meadows.

This is a challenging ascent, but every turn brings a growing sense of reward. As we crest the Morfa Pass, the landscape opens up in a breathtaking sweep: Mt. Smolikas, Mt. Tymfi, and the layered peaks of the Pindos Mountains roll out in every direction, painting a picture of wild, untouched Greece. The air is crisp, the silence profound.

From here, the trail begins its descent—an exhilarating ride along a forest road that winds gracefully down the mountainside. The forest closes in again, and golden light filters through the trees as we approach our destination: Laista, one of Zagori’s most picturesque and authentic stone villages. Built amphitheatrically on the slopes, Laista is a quiet gem, full of architectural grace and timeless charm.

We roll into the village square, where locals still gather under old trees and the smell of wood-fired ovens drifts through the air. Our guesthouse sits right here in the center, offering a cozy welcome and the feeling of having discovered a hidden piece of the past.

Overnight in Laista

Cycling Details:
Distance: ~30–32 km
Elevation gain: ~600 m (main climb to Morfa Pass)
Surface: Forest roads and light gravel; well-maintained
Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging

With the fresh mountain air and the sounds of Laista just waking up, we set off after breakfast, easing into the day along a scenic tarmac road that winds through some of the most serene and picturesque landscapes in all of Greece. The highlands here feel untouched by time—rolling meadows, pine-covered hills, and distant peaks that have witnessed centuries of nomadic life.

Our first stop is the plateau of Giftokampos, a cultural treasure and summer gathering point of the Sarakatsani—a traditionally nomadic shepherding people with deep roots in the Pindos Mountains. Here we visit their unique circular huts, known as “kalyvia,” and get a glimpse into a lifestyle shaped by movement, livestock, and mountain lore. The Sarakatsani still celebrate their traditions in this area every August with festivals, dances, and storytelling.

Leaving Giftokampos, we transition onto a quiet and scenic forest road that carries us deeper into the wilderness. The route gently climbs and descends through dense pine and beech forests, before opening out onto the remote plateau of Templitses—another important summer pastureland used by shepherds for centuries.

The final stretch is a peaceful ride through unspoiled nature, gradually bringing us to the elegant village of Negades, one of Zagori’s lesser-known gems. Its stone mansions, slate roofs, and grand three-aisled church with triple bell towers reflect the wealth and artistry of a bygone era. Time seems to slow here, and our stay in a traditional guesthouse lets us soak in the quiet charm of this historical village.

Overnight in Negades

Cycling Details:
Distance: ~35 km
Elevation gain: ~400–500 m
Surface: Mixed – paved to Giftokampos, then forest roads to Negades
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

Our ride today is all about Zagori’s timeless charm—a journey less defined by distance and more by discovery. We leave the peaceful village of Negades and head into Central Zagori, a land woven with history, folklore, and the masterful stonework of generations past.

Our first destination is the village of Kipi, once the vital hub of Zagori, where dozens of stone-arched bridges crisscross the rivers and ravines. These architectural marvels, some dating back to the 18th century, were once the only lifelines connecting the villages of the region—graceful and enduring links across wild terrain. Among the most iconic are Plakidas Bridge, with its three arches, and Kontodimos Bridge, tucked into a lush gorge.

From Kipi, we follow a gentle climb to Monodendri, one of Zagori’s most well-preserved and cultured villages. Here, cobbled alleys lead to sweeping views of Vikos Gorge from the dramatic Oxia viewpoint—a balcony perched on the very edge of the world’s deepest canyon (by proportion to its width). The sheer cliffs drop almost 1,000 meters to the riverbed below, and the panorama is nothing short of breathtaking.

After soaking in the views, we descend back into the heart of Monodendri to visit the Monastery of Agia Paraskevi, built into the rock in the 15th century. The monastery clings to the edge of the gorge, offering not just spiritual tranquility but one of the most unforgettable lookout points in the region.

We then complete our ride to Vitsa, another historic village of slate roofs, cobbled lanes, and elegant stone mansions, where we settle in for the night. The square here is the perfect place to toast to the day—with local wine and dishes crafted from Zagori’s wild herbs, mushrooms, and mountain greens.

Overnight in Vitsa

Cycling Details:
Distance: ~30–35 km
Elevation gain: ~500 m
Surface: Mostly paved roads with some cobbled village paths
Difficulty: Moderate (due to elevation and sightseeing stops)

Our final day in Zagori invites us to slow down, breathe deep, and connect with the quieter rhythm of the mountains. We begin the morning with a relaxed breakfast in Vitsa, then saddle up for a gentle loop ride through two of Zagori’s most picturesque and traditional villages: Dilofo and Koukouli. Today is about soaking in the culture, not chasing elevation.

A short ride along a quiet, tree-lined road brings us to Dilofo, perched at the foot of the Tymfi mountains and known for its impressive stone mansions and total lack of cars. With bikes walked into the center, we wander cobbled lanes that twist between centuries-old homes, tiny chapels, and blooming gardens. The village feels like a living museum—peaceful, proud, and authentic.

We continue to Koukouli, a village that once thrived as a center of trade and learning. Here, we visit the Lazaridis Museum, where a collection of rare herbs and local medicinal plants pays homage to the area’s deep botanical heritage. Koukouli was home to renowned herbalists who roamed the mountains collecting healing plants, a tradition woven into the identity of Zagori.

After a coffee in the shaded village square, we return to Vitsa by way of a gentle uphill road, framed by forests and stone walls. With the Vikos Gorge once again visible in the distance, we close our journey where it began—with a sense of wonder, and the feeling that we’ve pedaled through a truly timeless corner of Greece.

Overnight in Vitsa or Departure

Cycling Details:
Distance: ~15 km
Elevation gain: ~250–300 m
Surface: Fully paved roads, short cobbled sections inside villages
Difficulty: Easy

After a week of pedaling through pristine forests, timeless villages, and panoramic mountain passes, it’s time to say goodbye to the magic of Zagori and the spirit of Epirus. Depending on your travel plans, enjoy a leisurely morning in Vitsa—perhaps one last stroll through the cobbled alleys, a coffee in the square, or a final look across the cliffs of Vikos Gorge.

We’ll coordinate transfers to nearby cities or airports (Ioannina, Thessaloniki, or others), helping you make your onward journey as smooth as the roads you just conquered.

The legs may be tired, but the heart is full. You’re leaving with more than just photos—you’re taking home stories, flavors, and a deep connection to one of the most hidden and beautiful cycling regions in Europe.

Until next time—καλό ταξίδι (kaló taxídi)!